13.03.2019, 23:06
(Dieser Beitrag wurde zuletzt bearbeitet: 13.03.2019, 23:11 von Jens Abeler. 3 mal bearbeitet)
Hi,
mein schönstes Zapfenloch (von heute):
Die Vorgehensweise habe ich weitgehend von Paul Sellers übernommen.
Paul Sellers ist Möbelbauer aus England (https://paulsellers.com)
Ihm zu Ehren ist dieser Post in englischer Sprache.
Vorhandene Fehler sind unvermeidliche Folgen meiner Bildung.
Hello my dear friends, I feel a deep respect for Mr. Paul Sellers and his work. He posted hundreds of videos on youtube and on his website, to share his knowledge of woodworking. I am realy realy impressed by this.
Now the mortise:
First I mark the lines. I use a marking gauge to make the line above and below.
marking gauge
The other lines I do by knife.
knife walls
First slightly and then a little bit deeper. Next to the lines (right and left) I make a second line (about 1 mm). This is my guideline going to depth.
lines
If the lines are deepend a little bit, I use a router plane to bring down the surface about 1 mm. In this way I get a recess, which will guide the chisel.
router plane
recess
I have bought a mortise chisel. It is a realy strong one, to be used by soft-faced hammer or a mallet.
In this case I started on the left (bevel to the right side). First verry soft, not to damage the knife wall. Then I go to right side, in little steps. Step by step I am going deeper and deeper.
first row
Near the right line I have to tilt the chisel to cut down a steep line. For the last few blows I turnes the chisle (bevel to the left side.).
at the end
Then I clean up the hole with an awl.
cleaning up
first result
At he next step I start on the right side, holding the chisle vertical, the bevel to the left. In this way I go to the left in little steps until the bevel reaches the edge.
second step
deeper
For the next few blows I tilt the chisle to the right, not to damage the edge by the bevel. For the last blows I turn the chisle to bring down the chisle more perpendicular. For the last blow, straight on the line.
end of second
deeper hole
second result
Turning the chisle, now from the left to the right and; 'The same procedure as last year Miss Sophie ?' 'The same procedure as every year, James'
third result
Turning the chisle and: 'The same procedure as last year
On the last stage I look for the depth, because I don't want to break through the bottom. In this case I stuck a piece of tape to the chisle, to mark the wanted depth.
depth mark
The last step is to realise the right and the left end of the mortise. For this i use the outer lines, cut by knife. The cut is verry exact, so I can place the cutting edge of the chisle verry precisely.
exact position
In this case I guided the chisle by a square.
guiding the blow
I used a fresh sharpend chisle for the last step, so the cut is without any damage almost.
a clean cut
The last pictures are not as well because I ony used a simple camera, but you can see, that the wall is verry clean (for spruce).
greetings
https://translate.google.com/
mein schönstes Zapfenloch (von heute):
Die Vorgehensweise habe ich weitgehend von Paul Sellers übernommen.
Paul Sellers ist Möbelbauer aus England (https://paulsellers.com)
Ihm zu Ehren ist dieser Post in englischer Sprache.
Vorhandene Fehler sind unvermeidliche Folgen meiner Bildung.
Hello my dear friends, I feel a deep respect for Mr. Paul Sellers and his work. He posted hundreds of videos on youtube and on his website, to share his knowledge of woodworking. I am realy realy impressed by this.
Now the mortise:
First I mark the lines. I use a marking gauge to make the line above and below.
marking gauge
The other lines I do by knife.
knife walls
First slightly and then a little bit deeper. Next to the lines (right and left) I make a second line (about 1 mm). This is my guideline going to depth.
lines
If the lines are deepend a little bit, I use a router plane to bring down the surface about 1 mm. In this way I get a recess, which will guide the chisel.
router plane
recess
I have bought a mortise chisel. It is a realy strong one, to be used by soft-faced hammer or a mallet.
In this case I started on the left (bevel to the right side). First verry soft, not to damage the knife wall. Then I go to right side, in little steps. Step by step I am going deeper and deeper.
first row
Near the right line I have to tilt the chisel to cut down a steep line. For the last few blows I turnes the chisle (bevel to the left side.).
at the end
Then I clean up the hole with an awl.
cleaning up
first result
At he next step I start on the right side, holding the chisle vertical, the bevel to the left. In this way I go to the left in little steps until the bevel reaches the edge.
second step
deeper
For the next few blows I tilt the chisle to the right, not to damage the edge by the bevel. For the last blows I turn the chisle to bring down the chisle more perpendicular. For the last blow, straight on the line.
end of second
deeper hole
second result
Turning the chisle, now from the left to the right and; 'The same procedure as last year Miss Sophie ?' 'The same procedure as every year, James'
third result
Turning the chisle and: 'The same procedure as last year
On the last stage I look for the depth, because I don't want to break through the bottom. In this case I stuck a piece of tape to the chisle, to mark the wanted depth.
depth mark
The last step is to realise the right and the left end of the mortise. For this i use the outer lines, cut by knife. The cut is verry exact, so I can place the cutting edge of the chisle verry precisely.
exact position
In this case I guided the chisle by a square.
guiding the blow
I used a fresh sharpend chisle for the last step, so the cut is without any damage almost.
a clean cut
The last pictures are not as well because I ony used a simple camera, but you can see, that the wall is verry clean (for spruce).
greetings
https://translate.google.com/
Es ist schon erstaunlich, was man kann, wenn man's tut.
. Achtung! Zuviel Tee frisst Hirnzellen.
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